Everything You’ll Need

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Step 1: Prepare the Space

Remove Baseboards and Old Flooring

Begin by taking out the old flooring and baseboards to check the subfloor. This makes a clean surface for the hardwood.

Gently lift baseboards with a pry bar, taking care not to damage the drywall so they can be reused. Remove any old flooring and clean off all adhesive or staples.

Clean and Level the Subfloor

Sweep and vacuum the subfloor to remove dust, nails, and glue. Check for dips or bumps with a straight edge or level.

  • If there are high spots: sand them down.

  • If there are low spots: use a leveling compound to even them out.

A flat subfloor helps prevent squeaks and keeps the floor sturdy.

Check for Moisture or Damage

Moisture can cause problems for hardwood floors. Use a moisture meter to check the subfloor and hardwood.

  • For wood subfloors: moisture should be below 12%.

  • For concrete subfloors: follow specific limits, usually below 4% with a calcium chloride test.

If moisture is too high, pause installation and fix the issue first.

Install Underlayment or Vapor Barrier (If Needed)

Depending on the flooring and subfloor, an underlayment or moisture barrier might be needed:

  • Over concrete: use a vapor barrier or underlayment with moisture protection.

  • Over plywood or OSB: a rosin paper, felt, or foam pad may be suggested.

Follow manufacturer’s guidelines to prevent warranty issues and ensure good performance. Lay underlayment flat without overlap, and tape seams if needed.

Step 2: Plan Your Hardwood Layout

Select Your Starting Wall

In most rooms, lay hardwood planks parallel to the longest or most visible wall to make the space appear larger. In multiple rooms, consider plank alignment through doorways.

Use a chalk line to draw a straight line along the starting wall. This ensures your first rows and the overall layout remain straight.

Let the Flooring Settle

Before starting, let hardwood planks adjust to the room’s conditions for at least 48 to 72 hours. Lay boxes flat in the room, opening the ends for air circulation.

This helps the wood settle, reducing the chance of expansion or gaps post-installation.

Test a Dry Layout

Lay out a few rows of boards without attaching them to preview your layout. This helps you:

  • Ensure a balanced layout

  • Avoid narrow planks at edges

  • Plan around obstacles like vents or door frames

Use this time to mix boards from different boxes for a varied color and grain look across the floor.

Stagger Seams

For a natural appearance, stagger planks’ end joints by at least 6 to 8 inches each row. Avoid repeating lengths or making noticeable patterns like “stair-step” or “H”.

Tip: Use various plank lengths and alternate them for a natural flow.

Calculate Material (Include Extra for Waste)

Measure your area’s square footage (length × width) and add 10% for cutting waste, errors, and repairs.

For irregularly shaped rooms or diagonal installation, increase waste to 12–15%.

Step 3: Choose Your Installation Method

Before you begin, pick the best way to put down your hardwood. Different ways need different tools and work for different setups.

Nail-Down Installation (Common for Solid Hardwood)

This way is good for solid hardwood on wooden subfloors. Use a flooring nailer or stapler to fix each board.

  • Best for: Solid hardwood over wooden subfloors

  • Tools needed: Flooring nailer, mallet, air compressor

  • Pros: Very strong and lasts long

  • DIY Difficulty: Moderate (needs precision and right tools)

Glue-Down Installation

Mainly for engineered hardwood on concrete. Spread adhesive and press boards down.

  • Best for: Engineered hardwood over concrete

  • Tools needed: Flooring adhesive, notched trowel, floor roller

  • Pros: Strong hold and low profile

  • DIY Difficulty: Moderate to high (messier and needs ventilation)

Floating Installation (Click-Lock)

Perfect for those who like DIY, this uses click-lock planks that “float” over underlayment.

  • Best for: Click-lock engineered hardwood over any flat surface

  • Tools needed: Spacers, tapping block, underlayment

  • Pros: Quick, clean, easy for beginners

  • DIY Difficulty: Easy

Pro Tip: For solid hardwood on wood subfloors, nail-down is best. For engineered hardwood, many like floating floors for the easy process.

Step 4: Mark Guidelines and Snap Chalk Lines

Before you lay the boards, draw a straight line to guide your work.

Draw a Chalk Line by Your First Wall
Find the first wall, usually the longest one. Measure the board’s width, including the expansion gap, and draw a chalk line next to that wall. This line helps start the first row.

Follow the Line to Keep Rows Straight
Match the boards with the chalk line as you place them. This keeps the floor straight and avoids bending or curving.

Leave a 1/2″ Gap Around the Edges
Wood changes with humidity. Use spacers to leave a 1/2-inch space between the wood and walls, door frames, and other fixed things. This space allows for expansion without bending.

Step 5: Lay the First Row of Planks

Trim Door Jambs if Needed
Before you lay the first plank, check if it needs to go under door frames or trim. Use a saw to trim the bottoms of door jambs so the planks fit smoothly without gaps.

Start with Groove Side Facing the Wall
Put the first plank with the groove side towards the wall. This helps the next row to lock easily. Start on the longest, straightest wall to keep lines even all over the room.

Secure the First Row
Based on how you install:

  • Nail-down: Use a flooring nailer to fix boards through the tongue side.

  • Glue-down: Spread glue with a trowel and press each plank firmly.

  • Floating (click-lock): Angle the second plank into the first one and click to lock.

Make sure planks fit tightly without gaps at the seams.

Use Spacers to Maintain Expansion Gaps
Place 1/2″ spacers between planks and the wall. This gap allows the hardwood to naturally expand and contract with humidity and temperature changes, preventing buckling or warping over time.

Step 6: Install the Remaining Flooring

Once you place the first row of hardwood, continue adding more planks, one row at a time.

Stagger Joints for Strength
To keep the floor strong and natural-looking, place the end joints at least 6 inches apart in each row. Avoid lining them up to prevent weakness and repetition.

Tapping Block for a Snug Fit
Use a tapping block on each plank’s edge and tap gently with a mallet to close gaps, ensuring a snug fit without damaging the tongue or groove.

Secure Boards by Method

  • Nail-down: Use nails through the tongue at a 45° angle every 6–8 inches.

  • Glue-down: Spread glue evenly and press planks firmly.

  • Floating floor: Connect boards end-to-end and side-to-side.

Check Level Often
Use a level after a few rows to ensure the floor remains even. Make adjustments as needed to prevent future issues.

Step 7: Cut Boards to Fit Edges and Corners

When you are near walls or other obstacles, cut the last planks to fit well.

Measure and Mark Carefully
Use a tape measure to find the exact space left, leaving a 1/2″ gap for expansion. Mark your plank with a pencil or chalk.

Use the Right Saw for the Job

  • Miter saw: Ideal for straight cuts.

  • Jigsaw: Good for curved cuts around vents, door frames, or unusual shapes.

Cut on a stable surface and wear safety glasses to protect your eyes from dust.

Maintain Expansion Gaps
Keep a 1/2″ gap between the flooring and all vertical surfaces like walls and cabinets. This allows the hardwood to expand and contract naturally.

Step 8: Reinstall Baseboards and Transition Strips

Reattach Baseboards and Shoe Molding
Once the hardwood is installed, make the room tidy by reattaching the baseboards. If there was shoe molding before, put it back for a finished look.

Install Transition Strips
At doorways and where hardwood meets other floors like tile, add transition strips. Use T-moldings, reducers, or thresholds depending on the height and type of the other floor.

Leave Room for Movement
Do not nail or glue trim to the hardwood. This can cause issues if the wood moves. Fix the trim to the wall or subfloor instead.

Step 9: Clean and Inspect Your Floor

After installing your new hardwood floor, clean and check it to ensure it’s ready to use.

Sweep and Vacuum Well
Use a broom or a vacuum with a soft brush to clear sawdust and dirt. This helps you see the floor clearly and prevents scratches during inspection.

Check for Problems
Look for gaps, uneven boards, or creaking sounds. Use a tapping block to fix any misaligned boards or review your installation method if adjustments are needed.

Allow the Floor to Settle
For glue-down installs, wait 24–48 hours before placing furniture or rugs. This lets the glue fully set and prevents movement.

Pro Tips for a Successful Hardwood Installation

To do well with hardwood floors, plan and care properly. These tips make the job simpler:

  • Always check for moisture using a moisture meter first to prevent problems like cupping later.

  • Wear knee pads to protect your knees during long hours, and ensure there’s good ventilation if using glue.

  • Check alignment every few rows to keep planks straight.

  • Work in small sections and don’t rush to maintain high quality.

  • Be careful with cuts. Neat cuts are key for tight seams and good results.

Common Mistakes to Avoid When Installing Hardwood

Even skilled DIYers can face issues if these common mistakes are not avoided:

  • Skipping the acclimation period might make the wood change size after installation.

  • Ignoring subfloor moisture and flatness can lead to noise or gaps.

  • Not staggering seams can weaken the floor and make it look uneven.

  • Nailing too close to the edge of the plank may cause splits.

  • Not using spacers leaves no room for wood to expand, causing buckling.

DIY vs. Professional Hardwood Installation

Installing hardwood floors yourself saves money, but it’s not easy for everyone. Choose if you want to do it yourself or hire experts.

DIY Benefits:

  • Spend less money

  • Work at your own pace

  • Pride in your work

DIY Downsides:

  • Requires time and effort

  • Needs planning and tools

  • Fixing mistakes can cost more

Pro Installation Benefits:

  • Fast and skilled work

  • Takes care of everything

  • Includes warranty

Pro Installation Downsides:

  • Higher labor cost

  • Less control of timing

📊 Side-by-Side Comparison Table

Tool / MaterialSolid Hardwood (Nail-Down)Engineered Hardwood (Glue-Down)Engineered Hardwood (Floating/Click-Lock)Purpose
Tape Measure✔✔✔Measure layout and planks
Chalk Line✔✔✔Mark layout lines
Pry Bar✔✔✔Remove old flooring/baseboards
Moisture Meter✔✔✔Check subfloor moisture
Level✔✔✔Ensure even subfloor
SpacersOptional✔✔Maintain expansion gap at walls
Flooring Nailer / Stapler✔✘✘Secure solid planks to subfloor
Flooring Adhesive✘✔✘Glue engineered wood to subfloor
Trowel (for adhesive)✘✔✘Spread adhesive evenly
Click-Lock Installation Kit✘✘✔Includes tapping block, pull bar, spacers
Miter Saw✔✔✔Make crosscuts on planks
Jigsaw / Oscillating Tool✔✔✔Trim around obstacles
Safety Glasses✔✔✔Eye protection while cutting
Knee Pads
FeatureDIY InstallationProfessional Installation
Average Cost per Sq Ft$3 – $8 (materials + tools)$7 – $18 (includes labor)
Best ForBudget-focused, handy peopleBusy people, big or tough jobs
Time CommitmentSeveral days or weekends1–2 days (typical)
Risk of MistakesModerate to highLow
Tool Investment Required✔❌ (provided by installer)
SatisfactionHigh (if done well)High (with professional finish)

👉 For detailed costs, methods, and options, see our Hardwood Flooring Cost Guide