Everything You’ll Need
| Tool/Material | Laminate Flooring | Purpose |
|---|---|---|
| Utility Knife | ✔ | Cuts underlayment and trims laminate edges |
| Tape Measure | ✔ | Measures room size and plank cuts |
| Straight Edge | ✔ | Makes straight cuts and aligns |
| Pry Bar | ✔ | Removes baseboards or old flooring |
| Spacers | ✔ | Keeps expansion gaps along walls |
| Tapping Block | ✔ | Taps planks together gently |
| Non-Marring Hammer | ✔ | Fits with tapping block for tight fits |
| Laminate Cutter or Saw | ✔ | Cuts planks to size |
| Knee Pads | ✔ | Protects knees during installation |
| Level | ✔ | Ensures subfloor and first row are even |
| Chalk Line | ✔ | Marks straight alignment lines |
| Underlayment Roll | ✔ (if required) | Adds cushioning and soundproofing |
| Jigsaw or Oscillating Tool | ✔ | Cuts around pipes, door jambs |
Step 1: Choose a Layout Pattern
Before you put down your laminate flooring, think about how to arrange the planks. Laminate might not have as many pattern options as other floors, but your layout can still change the room’s look and feel.
Here are some easy and common patterns for laminate flooring:
Straight Lay Pattern (Most Common)
This is the easiest and most popular choice.
Planks are placed parallel to the longest wall or toward natural light. It gives a clean, classic look that fits most rooms.
Diagonal Pattern
This pattern has a lively, upscale look.
Planks are set at a 45-degree angle to the walls, making small rooms look bigger or adding interest to square spaces. It may need more cutting and extra material.
Random/Variable Stagger
Planks are placed in a staggered way, with different lengths in each row.
This mimics the natural look of hardwood and avoids repetitive patterns or aligned seams.
Herringbone or Chevron (Advanced/Pro)
Some laminate floors are designed for herringbone or chevron patterns.
These elegant designs need precise cuts and planning. Not all laminate brands offer planks for these patterns.
Step 2: Prepare the Space
Remove Baseboards and Old Flooring
Start by taking off any baseboards and the old flooring for a clean area.
Use a pry bar to carefully remove the baseboards — go slowly to avoid damage so you can reuse them.
If taking out carpet, cut it into smaller parts with a utility knife and remove.
For tile, vinyl, or wood, use the correct method to remove them.
Clean and Inspect the Subfloor
Sweep and vacuum thoroughly to remove dust and dirt.
Check for cracks, dips, or high spots. Use a leveling compound to fill low spots and sand down high areas. A smooth subfloor is key for lasting laminate flooring.
Install Underlayment
Most laminate floors require an underlayment unless it is pre-attached.
Underlayment provides cushioning, reduces noise, and helps fix small subfloor problems.
Roll it over the subfloor, making sure edges meet without overlapping. Tape seams securely.
✅ Pro Tip: If installing over concrete, consider adding a moisture barrier beneath the underlayment.
Step 3: Choose an Installation Method
Laminate flooring is simple for DIY tasks and typically uses an easy installation: Click-Lock (Floating Floor). This flooring type often does not need glue or peel-and-stick methods.
Click-Lock (Floating Installation)
The Click-Lock system, also called tongue-and-groove or interlocking, is the easiest and most common way for laminate floors. Each plank clicks together securely, with no nails or glue necessary.
This method lets the floor “float” above the subfloor, letting it naturally adapt to temperature and humidity changes.
Key Advantages:
No adhesives required — simplifies cleanup and uses fewer materials.
DIY-friendly — great for beginners.
Versatile — suitable for different subfloors, like concrete and plywood.
Installation Tips:
Leave a 1/4-inch expansion gap around the room’s edge using spacers. This prevents buckling as the floor expands and contracts.
Follow the manufacturer’s guidelines for plank alignment and clicking techniques.
Use a tapping block and pull bar to ensure tight seams without damaging the plank edges.
Step 4: Lay the First Row
Trim the Short Edge of the First Plank
Begin by cutting the short side of your first plank. This helps it fit well against the wall for a clean look. Use a utility knife for thin laminates or a circular saw or miter saw for thicker ones.
Place the First Plank 1/4 Inch from the Wall
Put the first plank next to the starting wall, keeping a 1/4-inch gap between it and the wall. This gap is crucial as laminate flooring adjusts with temperature and humidity.
Use Spacers to Keep the Expansion Gap
Place spacers between the wall and the floor to maintain the expansion gap while installing the floor. Keep these spacers around the room’s edges.
Stagger End Joints for Better Stability
For the second row, make the first plank at least 6 inches shorter than the first plank of the row before. This staggers the end joints, improving the floor’s strength and giving it a more natural appearance.
Tip: Avoid aligning joints across rows — this can make the floor weaker and less natural-looking.
Step 5: Cutting Planks to Fit
Straight Cuts — Score and Snap
For straight cuts (like trimming the end of a plank):
Use a utility knife to make a line where you want to cut.
Snap the plank along the line for a clean break (this works best for thin laminates).
For thicker laminate, use a laminate cutter, circular saw, or miter saw for neat cuts.
Irregular Cuts — Around Corners and Obstacles
When cutting around door frames or odd shapes:
Use a jigsaw or oscillating multi-tool.
These tools help with precise, curved, or angled cuts that regular saws can’t do.
Cutting Around Pipes
Measure the diameter of the pipe and add 1 inch for expansion.
Drill a hole in the plank for the pipe size.
Make a straight cut from the hole to the edge of the plank.
After fitting, seal around the pipe with silicone caulk to cover gaps and stop moisture.
Tight Spaces — Under Door Jambs
Use a jamb saw to trim the bottom of the door frame.
This lets you slide the plank under the frame for a clean look.
Pro Tip: Always wear safety goggles and work slowly with power tools to avoid damage.
| Cutting Task | Recommended Tool(s) | Technique |
|---|---|---|
| Straight cuts (length/width) | Utility knife (thin laminate) Laminate cutter or miter saw (standard) | Score and snap for thin laminate Use a saw for clean, straight cuts |
| Irregular cuts (corners, curves) | Jigsaw or oscillating multi-tool | Mark the shape, cut slowly following the line |
| Around pipes | Drill + Jigsaw or Hole saw | Drill a hole + cut a slit to the edge, leave ½” expansion gap |
| Tight spaces (door jambs) | Jamb saw (undercut saw) | Undercut the jamb to slide the plank underneath |
| Final fitting/trimming | Utility knife or laminate cutter | Trim small excess for a snug fit |
Step 6: Laying Subsequent Rows
Angle the Planks into Place
Begin each row by tilting the plank’s tongue into the groove of the previous row. Lower it gently until it clicks or fits snugly.
Use a Tapping Block and Non-Marring Hammer
For a tight fit, use a tapping block with a non-marring hammer or mallet.
Place the tapping block on the plank’s edge.
Tap gently to close gaps between planks.
Never use a standard hammer directly on the laminate—it could chip or damage the edges.
Maintain the Staggered Pattern
Keep staggering the end joints by at least 6 inches each row for stability and a natural look.
Check Expansion Gaps
Use spacers along the walls to maintain the 1/4-inch expansion gap during installation.
Step 7: Finishing the Installation
Install Transition Strips
Once all planks are in place, put transition strips at doorways and where laminate touches other floors. These strips:
Ensure a smooth, safe change.
Keep laminate edges safe.
Follow the maker’s guide for type and fitting.
Transitioning to Other Flooring
Pick the right transition type:
T-molding for floors of the same height.
Reducer strips for moving to lower surfaces like tile or vinyl.
Attach strips to the subfloor—not directly to the laminate—leaving a 1/4-inch gap to stop buckling.
Reinstall Baseboards
Put baseboards back, securing them to the wall, not the floor. This lets the laminate expand and shrink freely.
Allow the Floor to Settle
Before moving back furniture or walking a lot on the floor:
Wait at least 48 hours so the laminate can adjust to the room’s temperature and humidity.
Common Mistakes to Avoid When Installing Laminate Flooring
Installing in Damp Areas
Laminate floors are not good for very wet places like bathrooms or laundry rooms. Water can seep into the seams and cause them to swell or warp.
Using a Hammer on Planks
Avoid hitting the laminate directly with a hammer. Use a tapping block or pull bar to gently tap planks without damaging the edges.
End Joints Overlapping
Do not line up the end joints of planks in the next rows. This weakens the floor and can cause gaps. Stagger the joints by at least 6 inches.
Missing the Expansion Gap
Not leaving a 1/4-inch expansion gap around the room can lead to buckling as the floor changes with temperature and humidity.
Walking Too Soon
Allow the laminate floor to settle for 48 hours after installation before walking on it or placing heavy furniture.
Tips for a Successful Laminate Flooring Installation
- Measure Well and Plan for Extra
Check the room size and get 10% more laminate flooring for cuts, mistakes, and future fixes. Check Planks Before Installing
Look at each plank for problems before using it. Set aside any bad ones to keep a nice look.Wear Knee Pads for Comfort
Use knee pads to protect your knees, especially for long work hours. It helps you work better.Go Slow and Be Careful
Do each step slowly, from the first row to cutting planks. Going fast can cause bad fits and errors.Keep the Right Expansion Gap
Leave a 1/4-inch gap around the edges to stop buckling as the laminate changes size.
DIY vs. Professional Laminate Flooring Installation
Many choose laminate flooring because it’s simple to install yourself. Whether you do it yourself or hire help depends on your skill, tools, and job complexity.
DIY Installation
✅ Pros:
Save money on labor (usually $2 to $5 per sq ft).
Work at your own pace.
Great for small, simple areas.
❌ Cons:
Requires basic tools (spacers, tapping block, saws).
Errors like wrong expansion gaps can lead to problems.
Takes time, especially for large or odd-shaped areas.
Professional Installation
✅ Pros:
Fast and precise.
Experts handle floor prep, tricky cuts, and transitions.
Often includes a warranty.
❌ Cons:
Extra cost — generally adds $2 to $5 per sq ft for labor.
On average, laminate flooring installation (materials + labor) ranges from $4 to $12 per square foot based on style and difficulty. For more details, view our Laminate Flooring Cost Guide.
| Installation Method | Average Cost per Sq Ft | Pros | Cons |
|---|---|---|---|
| DIY Installation | $1.50 – $4 (materials only) | Save on labor Flexible schedule Good for small areas | Time-consuming Requires tools & skills Mistakes can be costly |
| Professional Installation | $4 – $12 (materials + labor) | Fast & precise Warranty often included Handles complex cuts & transitions | Higher upfront cost |
Do You Need Professional Help With Your Laminate Flooring Installation Project?
Now you know how to put down laminate flooring, you’re almost ready for a stylish, strong floor. If you don’t want to do the work, our expert team can help.
We handle everything — from preparing the subfloor to aligning planks perfectly — so you can relax with perfect, long-lasting floors. We’ll help you choose the right laminate style and underlayment for your space and budget.
Contact us today to schedule your free in-home consultation and check if we serve your area.
